Galápagos Islands

Draft, Converting from Old Site

Richard Rathe, October 2013 (Birds, History, Nature)

Map of the Galápagos Islands (source:wikicommons)
Map of the Galápagos Islands (source:wikicommons)

We recently visited Ecuador and the unique Galápagos Islands.

Day 1 - Arrival

We arrived about noon and proceeded to nearby Black Turtle Bay where we saw Sea Turtles, Sharks, and Golden Rays amongst the mangroves. If you have enough bandwidth you should also view the 12 Minute Video I’ve prepared to see them in motion!

Golden Rays
Golden Rays

Day 2 - Genovesa

After an overnight cruise we awoke the next day anchored in Darwin Bay on Genovesa Island (basically the flooded caldera of an extinct volcano!). After a wet landing on a sandy beach we had our first encounters with Sea Lions and nesting Frigate Birds. (With many, many more to come!)

Male Frigate Bird on Nest
Male Frigate Bird on Nest

After snorkeling and lunch we climbed a narrow stairway to reach the top of the island. Over one million birds nest here according to our guide. We saw thousands of Petrels, Shearwaters, Frigate Birds, and Boobies in the air and on their nests. We also saw their top predator, the Short-Eared Owl. [I should note that the panoramas below were taken with my iPhone 4s, which did a remarkable job under the circumstances! See Video to get a feel for the thousands of birds flying overhead!]

Genovesa Bird Coast Panorama
Genovesa Bird Coast Panorama
Genovesa Trail Panorama
Genovesa Trail Panorama
Well Camouflaged Small-Eared Owl
Well Camouflaged Small-Eared Owl

Day 3 - Bartolomé

We again cruised overnight and woke up anchored in Sullivan Bay near the iconic Pinnacle Rock of Bartolomé Island. The landscape is stark and strangely beautiful almost beyond words. We first climbed to the Bartolomé summit for one of the most famous views in all of the Galapagos. We were standing on an old cinder cone almost completely barren of plants. In the near distance was the pinnacle and our barkentine sailboat the Mary Anne. Beyond a narrow channel was Santiago Island with black lava flows and red rock outcrops. Spectacular!!

Bartolomé Island Panorama
Bartolomé Island Panorama

On the ascent I spotted a Galápagos Hawk feeding on an iguana

Galápagos Hawk Having Lunch
Galápagos Hawk Having Lunch

We then took a snorkel around the pinnacle and came across Galápagos Penquins sunning themselves on the rocks…

Snorkling at Pinnacle Rock
Snorkling at Pinnacle Rock
Galápagos Penquin with Friends
Galápagos Penquin with Friends

After lunch we crossed the narrow passage and landed on Santiago Island at the site of extensive lava flows dating from the 1800s. We walked for more than two miles over black Pāhoehoe Lava with endless patterns, swirls and cracks.

Climbing the Santiago Lava Beds
Climbing the Santiago Lava Beds
Our Group Sitting on the Lava Fringe
Our Group Sitting on the Lava Fringe
Santiago Lava Beds at Sunset (HDR)
Santiago Lava Beds at Sunset (HDR)

Day 4

The next day we arrived at Rábida Island with its prominent red cliff and red sand beach. We took an extended dingy ride along the coast (to the right in the photo below). The hillsides were covered with dormant Sandalwood Trees and Prickly Pear (Opuntia) Cactus. [See Video]

Rábida Island (HDR Panorama)
Rábida Island (HDR Panorama)

This was our first encounter with the quintessential Blue-Footed Boobie, a magnificent seabird! There were also Marine Iguanas, Sally Lightfoot Crabs and Sea Lions playing in the surf.

Blue-Footed Boobie
Blue-Footed Boobie

We went for a hike around a point overlooking a blue water bay, and then went snorkeling.

Rábida Island Panorama
Rábida Island Panorama
Sea Lion Pup Playing Chicken
Sea Lion Pup Playing Chicken

In the afternoon we landed at a point called Cerro Dragón.

Cerro Dragón HDR
Cerro Dragón HDR

The “dragons” in this case are large Yellow Land Iguanas.

Yellow Land Iguana
Yellow Land Iguana

We also encountered a lovely Large-Billed Flycatcher. It was so unafraid it landed on a branch about four feet from me!

Large-Billed Flycatcher
Large-Billed Flycatcher

As the sun got low in the west we encountered a pair of Flamingos busily feeding in a small lagoon. [See Video]

Flamingo
Flamingo

Day 5

The next day we spent traveling around in the dingy, cruising the coastline and landing on a small island called Mosquera, which is a sea lion resort! [See Video]

Friendly Sea Lion Pup
Friendly Sea Lion Pup

Someone had gathered the bones of a small Beaked Whale and assembled them on the beach.

Beaked Whale Skeleton (Our Boat Beyond)
Beaked Whale Skeleton (Our Boat Beyond)

Day 6

Next day we moved down the coast of Santa Cruz and landed on the small South Plaza Island. This is a wildlife and photographic paradise! Sea Lions, Marine and Land Iguanas, Cactus Finches, Mocking Birds, Swallow-Tailed Gulls… you name it!

Opuntia Cactus on South Plaza Island
Opuntia Cactus on South Plaza Island
Sea Lion Pup with Soulful Eyes
Sea Lion Pup with Soulful Eyes

The island gently slopes from a shoreline to a forty foot cliff. There we saw several Red-Billed Tropicbirds as they flew in the updrafts close to the cliff edge.

Red-Billed Tropicbird
Red-Billed Tropicbird

That afternoon we proceeded south to Santa Fé Island for a different species of Land Iguana, Tree-Sized Cactus and a large Sea Lion Colony.

 Santa Fé Island Panorama
Santa Fé Island Panorama

Day 7

Our final day on the water brought us to Española Island with its high cliffs and unique residents.

Española Island Cliffs
Española Island Cliffs

The Marine Iguanas were the most colorful we’d seen…

Colorful Marine Iguana
Colorful Marine Iguana

A pair of Blue-Footed Boobies did their courtship dance on the trail as we walked past…

Blue-Footed Boobies Courting
Blue-Footed Boobies Courting

Young Fur Sea Lions cavorted in the surf…

Fur Sea Lions
Fur Sea Lions

And finally the Waved Albatross courting and nesting along the trail… [See Video]

Waved Albatross in Flight
Waved Albatross in Flight

Day 8

The next day we got in a van and drove through the Santa Cruz Highlands back to the airport. Along the way we had the opportunity to visit a water hole with several Giant Tortoises lounging in it. A perfect coda to an outstanding trip!

Santa Cruz Giant Tortoise
Santa Cruz Giant Tortoise

Gallery

from: https://richard.rathe.org/2013/galapagos-islands-2013


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